Forget dull skin, unlock your glow: The dermatologist’s guide to Vitamin C serums ✨

Ever ask a doctor, “What’s the magic potion for radiant skin?” For me, as a dermatologist with 15 years of experience, the answer often starts with Vitamin C serums. Yes, the brands Derms recommend might cost a little more, but trust me, they’re like bottled sunshine for your face – worth every penny!

But hold on, the world of Vitamin C serums is more than just picking the prettiest bottle. Let’s break it down:

What are various types of Vitamin C serum?

Vitamin c serum can have one of the following types of Vitamin C in it:

1. L Ascorbic acid: Research shows that L-ascorbic acid is the best form of Vitamin C. The combination of 15% L-ascorbic, 1% Vitamin E and 0.5% ferulic acid is eight times more powerful than L ascorbic acid alone. However, L-Ascorbic degrades quickly in contact with air or UV light, visible as yellow discoloration of serum. Therefore, to ensure the effectiveness of Ascorbic acid, it should be packed in air-tight pump packing or capsules at a ph of 3.5.

2. Ethyl Ascorbic acid: It is a stable form of L-Ascorbic acid that can be formulated more efficiently and does not oxidize quickly. It is 85% as potent as L ascorbic acid.

3. Compound form of Vitamin: These are stable water-soluble compound form of vitamin C like

Magnesium/sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate,
Ascorbyl- 6-palmitate
disodium isostearyl 2-0 L-ascorbyl phosphate
ascorbic acid sulphate
tetraisopalmitoyl ascorbic acid.

It is less potent than the above two but worth trying for sensitive skin types. However, this study found that derivatives of ascorbic acid did not increase skin levels of L-ascorbic acid.

Best Vitamin C serum for each skin concern

Best affordable Vitamin C serum- Garnier Vitamin C
Best Vitamin C serum for oily Skin- La Roche- Posay
Best Vitamin C Serum for dry skin- Cera Ve
Best Vitamin C Serum for sensitive skin- Cera Ve
Best Vitamin C Serum for pigmented skin- The Ordinary
Best Vitamin C Serum for 30s- Sesderma
Best Vitamin C Serum for 40’s- Biolumin C
Best Vitamin C serum for Sagging skin- Flavo-C Ultraglican by ISDIN
Best Vitamin C Serum for anti-aging- Drunk Elephant

⇒Watch this video for a quick overview of the best Vitamin C serum.

10. Garnier vitamin C serum

BEST IN BUDGET

Garnier vitamin C serum is affordable with skin lightening, anti-aging, and anti-acne benefits. It contains star ingredients like Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Niacinamide, Yuzu lemon extracts, salicylic acid, Sodium hyaluronate, and Resorcinol.

9. Klair’s Vitamin C Serum

GOOD FOR K BEAUTY FANS

Klair’s Vitamin C serum combines Chinese herbs, epidermal growth factors, and 5 % vitamin C. This serum has skin lightening, skin repairing, and anti-aging benefits.

Klair’s vitamin C serum is a Korean skincare brand. While it has advantages, it might cause breakouts in certain people, especially if the skin is sensitive. It has a boatload of traditional Chinese herbs.

8. CeraVe Vitamin C Serum

BEST FOR DRY SKIN

Cera Ve Vitamin C serum is suitable for dry to normal skin types. The serum has 10 % Ascorbic acid, which enhances the skin tone and removes hyperpigmentation by boosting collagen production in the skin.

Cera Ve products’ hallmark is that they are formulated for dry and sensitive. It has hydrating and soothing ingredients like ceramides glycerine, hyaluronic acid, cholesterol, and vitamins B5 and E.

7. The Ordinary Vitamin C Serum

GOOD FOR PIGMENTED SKIN

The Ordinary Ascorbic Acid 8% + Alpha Arbutin 2% Serum has anti-aging and skin-lightening action. 8% L Ascorbic acid, the purest Vitamin C, delays aging, repairs skin, and fades pigmentation. While Arbutin 2% fades those dark spots.

6. La Roche- Posay Pure Vitamin C10

GOOD FOR OILY SKIN WITH OPEN PORES

La Roche-Posay’s Pure Vitamin C 10 Serum has a unique component that reduces redness and irritation on the skin.
It has L ascorbic acid, salicylic acid, Hyaluronic acid, and Salicylic acid. Later reduces the oil section and open pores.

5. RoC Multi Vitamin C Serum

GOOD FOR SKIN BRIGHTENING

It has 10 % 3-O-Ethyl-Ascorbic acid, four potent anti-oxidant, and anti-inflammatory herbal ingredients. Also, it has Nonapeptide-1, a skin whitening peptide that can prevent melanin synthesis. Overall, it is a good product for sensitive skin prone to pigmentation.

4. Flavo-C Ultraglican by ISDIN

GOOD FOR SAGGING SKIN

Suppose you are looking for a product that helps in skin brightening, tightening, and anti-aging. In that case, ISDIN Flavo-C Ultraglican Ampoules are for you. Vitamin C, Hyaluronic Acid, and Proteoglycan complex provide a complete anti-aging solution. ISDIN Flavo-C Ultraglican Ampoules preserve the ingredients for maximum benefits.

3. Sesderma C-Vit Liposomal Serum

OVERALL BEST

Sesderma c-vit liposomal serum is the one-stop solution for taking off your skin after age 25. It helps in skin lightening, skin repair, and anti-aging. It contains potent ingredients, including Vitamin C, E, Retinoid, Peptide, and Tranexamic acid.

2. Biolumin C Serum

COMPLETE ANTI-AGEING SOLUTION

The biolumin-C serum has many ingredients that delay aging, lighten skin, and rejuvenate from within.
The biolumin-C serum is a complete anti-aging package. It has all the cosmeceuticals that your skin needs, like Vitamin C, Peptides, Lactic acid, Hyaluronic acid, and Sodium PCA, to name a few.

1. Drunk Elephant’s C-Firma Day Serum

MOST POWERFUL

Drunk Elephant’s C-Firma Day Serum is a potent blend of 15% L- Ascorbic acid, 0.5% Ferulic acid, and 1%Vitamin E, nutrients, fruit enzymes, and anti-oxidants. This composition is much better than the all-time favorite Skinceutical Vitamin c serum. It helps to brighten up your skin and reduce the signs of photoaging by decreasing dark spots and wrinkles. It might not have a visible firming effect but a plumping result due to the presence of Hyaluronic acid.

FAQ

What does vitamin C serum do to the face?

Vitamin C serum has the following benefits when used for three months:

Reduces fine wrinkles
It improves the overall texture and evens out rough skin,
Lightens pigmentation
Decreases laxity and sallowness of skin
Improves the feel of your skin

How to use Vitamin C serum?

Vitamin C does not react with sunlight. Therefore, you can pair Vitamin C in the morning with glycolic acid or retinoids at night.

I have discussed how to combine these agents correctly in the following articles:

Anti-ageing regime in 20s

Anti-ageing regime in 30s

Anti-ageing regime in 40s

Anti-ageing regime above 50s

Vitamin C(ascorbic acid) starts producing results after four weeks of application(6). Maximum results are evident in 3 months.

Is it ok to use Vitamin C serum daily?

You can use Vitamin C every day without any side effects. I have been using it daily for the past 16 years! However, it is best to switch brands because each brand listed has something different to offer.

Vitamin C is part of our diet. Is it really important to apply it to our skin?

Yes, you can apply Vitamin C serum on your skin, even if you eat Vitamin C-rich food , because in one study, it was found that the availability of Vitamin C in the skin is often inadequate despite the adequate oral intake of Vitamin C-rich food. Therefore, topical Vitamin C serum should be used for skin rejuvenation.

Secondly, unlike plants that can make their own vitamin C, humans are totally dependent on the diet for Vitamin C. Therefore, if your diet lacks Vitamin C, your skin will lack natural anti-oxidant like Vitamin C that helps repair skin.

Are there studies to prove the benefit of Vitamin C on the skin?

Numerous studies prove that Vitamin C serum reduces fine wrinkles, rough skin, pigmentation, laxity, and sallowness and improves your skin’s overall texture and feel in an average of 3 months.

I have cited a few of the studies for your reference below:

In a study done on ten patients, where Vitamin C (in the form of 10% ascorbic acid and 7% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate) in gel base was applied to one-half of the face, and only bland gel base was applied on the other half of the face for 12 weeks. At the end of 12 weeks, there was both visible and microscopic improvement in wrinkles, dark spots, and hydration on the treated side of the face (1).
In another three-month study using Cellex-C serum, there was a significant improvement in fine wrinkling, tactile roughness, coarse rhytids, skin laxity/tone, sallowness/yellowing, and overall features(2).
In another study, 23.8% L-ascorbic acid showed a significant reduction in dyspigmentation, surface roughness, and fine lines on the treated side(3).
In yet another study, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP) 3 cream or pro-vitamin C showed significant improvement in pigmentation in 3 weeks(4)
This study showed that ascorbic acid is better than sodium ascorbyl-2-phosphate in reducing pigmentation and wrinkling of the skin(5).
There are many more studies that validate the role of Vitamin C alone in reducing skin aging primarily fine wrinkles, rough skin, laxity, and dark spots. (6) (7), (8), (9)

How long should I apply Vitamin C on my skin to see changes?

Vitamin C(ascorbic acid) starts producing results after four weeks of application (6). It should be continued for three months to see significant changes in skin aging, primarily fine wrinkles, rough skin, laxity and dark spots. Interestingly, oral intake of Vitamin C also delays wrinkles. (10)

What is the best time to apply Vitamin C serum to the skin?

Vitamin C should be applied at night because UV light or sun exposure reduces the level of Vitamin C in the skin.

We hope this article will help you make an informed decision on buying a costly skincare product like Vitamin C serum.

Blogs by Dermatologist

Forget dull skin, unlock your glow: The dermatologist’s guide to Vitamin C serums ✨

Forget dull skin, unlock your glow: The dermatologist’s guide to Vitamin C serums ✨